Brad's England Journal- December Entries 

Wednesday, December 4, 1996

Well, I will keep this entry short since I am pretty swamped with work right now since the term ends next week. I have a group project due in HCI where we are designing the interface for a tool to create computer animation for movies, a bibliography for our Research Skills course, and a group report on Genetic Algorithms for our Artificial Intelligence course. Yesterday I had to do a presentation in Research Skills on my mini-project. I used the computer to show animations of my work and it seemed to go quite well (surprisingly everything on the computer worked). I also had a German test last night which I didn't study for because I was preparing for my presentation. The German course doesn't count for anything except my own edification, so I wasn't to concerned. Nonetheless the test went all right, although I can't get the "the" forms right for any of the nouns ("the" changes to das, die, der, den, dem... depending on what part of speech the noun is and its gender, male, female, or neuter-- I much prefer just "the", but if I am going to learn German I have to learn to deal with all the forms).

Tonight was the Rotary District Council, of which we are required to attend one. District Council is a time when Rotarians from all over the District come together to discuss District business. It wasn't very exciting, but was worth watching once. The main things of note (to me) was that the District has a web-page and was encouraging clubs to make them, they voted to pass an amendment on attendance requirements on to RIBI, and voted not to pass an amendment to allow Rotarians to change clubs with impunity.


Tuesday, December 10, 1996

Yuck, last Thursday through Sunday I was sick again, this time with either intestinal flu or food poisoning. I suspect it was intestinal flu since a couple other people I knew got something similar. Thursday I was so sick that I couldn't do anything but sleep and run to the bathroom-- I didn't make it out of bed until 5:30pm. I seem to be feeling better now, however.

This weekend was the weekend of Christmas meals, starting on Saturday night. Fortunately I was feeling well enough to attend even though I was not at 100% yet. Saturday night was the O-Club Christmas meal at the MAC. The dress code said dress smart, so I work a blazer, dress slacks and a tie, but found I was dressed smarter than anyone else there. They gave me a special toast for dressing up so nice! The meal was quite good-- I had roast beef and yorkshire pudding. The other event of note was the food fight that started in the middle of the meal, with mince pies flying everywhere. I felt sorry for the waitresses who had to clean up the room after words-- at least soup wasn't being thrown around.

Worcester Cathedral
King John's Tomb

Scenes at Worcester Cathedral

Sunday was the AngSoc trip to Worcester Cathedral. We attended a service at the Cathedral, had a tour and then ate a Christmas lunch at a nearby hotel (see group picture at left). The sermon given at the service was quite good, the main point being that most people consider the Word of God to be the Bible, while really if you read the book of John you discover that Jesus is the Word made Flesh, and the Bible is only a method of coming to know him. The Cathedral itself has an impressive history behind it going all the way back to Roman times. I was also told that most Americans came to see the tomb of King John which is located in the Cathedral, so I made sure to take note of it (see picture above). Prince Arthur, the elder brother of Henry VIII, is also buried there, and our guide, a priest who works at the Cathedral, commented that many ask the question of what would have happened if Prince Arthur hadn't died, and therefore Henry VIII was never made King (Henry VIII created the Church of England splitting off from the Roman Catholics). His opinion was that not much would be different since change was in the air anyway. After the tour we went to a nearby hotel and a had a very filling meal. Everybody got party hats and I got one of two tri-cornered hats like those of the American Revolutionaries-- I thought this was very appropriate. The picture at right shows Rev. Gorham serving wine in his pirate hat.

Later Sunday evening I attended the Catholic Society Pantomime. Pantomime is apparently a grand tradition at Christmas time here in Britain. The idea is that amateurs get together and perform a farcical version of a popular kids fairy tale. In this case it was Cinderella. They also traditionally have the male and female leads played by the opposite sex, so in this case Cinderella was a man and the Prince was a woman. The lines were all very cheesy and there was a special appearance by a guy with a beard and a hairy chest dressed in a tu-tu playing the fairy, or perhaps hairy, god-mother (see picture at left). Overall it was pretty funny, partly because the audience kept yelling things to the performers.

Amr, one of my friends back in the States also brought to my attention a very cool program this week. It allows you to use the microphone and speakers on your computer as a telephone through the Internet, and is called Net2Phone. It works by sending your voice to the US where a US call is made to the desired number. The other party uses a regular phone and their voice is sent back to your computer over the Internet. It only costs 10 cents/minutes to call the US and 800 numbers are free. Of course you also have to pay to connect to your Internet provider, but it is still much cheaper than calling using British Telecom. When I first tried it the quality was terrible, but after fiddling with it I got it to work pretty decently. It sounds about the same as a cellular phone.

My Xmas plans also seem to be solidifying a little bit. I've sent some email back and forth to Rebecca in Spain and it looks like we will travel around England some over the break. She will spend Xmas with relatives in Yorkshire and I will stay with my host counselor, Dr. Yannamani. We'll see exactly what transpires.


Saturday, December 14, 1996

Phew, a very hectic week is finally over. This past week was when most of my projects were due. I spent quite a lot of time on our HCI project, which had a presentation and report component. I wrote 16 pages for the report (which was 52 pages in total, although some of my stuff was cut), and also made the slides for the presentation. Another fellow edited the report, and we had a slight disagreement on the details of the system (we called is CASC for Computer Animation and Scene Composition). In the end his view was more emphasized, but he spent a lot of time on the editing so I guess that is only fair. Our presentation also didn't go very well since we there was no time when everybody could get together to practice. Each person took at least twice as long as they should have and we wound up having to drop somebody's section. Fortunately the Professor's watching were forgiving and allowed him to go after we finished the rest of the presentation. I am just glad it is over now. I think our ideas were good, but we didn't polish them well enough and the presentation could have gone better. Oh, well. I also finished the bibliography report for research skills, where I had to do a survey of the literature of computer vision and compare it to another field-- I chose Organic Chemistry. The third project on Genetic Algorithms has been put off until next Friday.

Wednesday I took some time to go to the Carol Service at the Great Hall. There was a large choir and a lot of people. Overall it was quite nice. Carol Services are another British Christmas tradition. It is basically a service where the readings from the bible discussing the birth of Christ are read in between singing a bunch of carols. Overall if was a lot of fun.

Last night all of the scholars got together again down in Warwick for a Christmas meal. I was so exhausted from working on projects that I honestly didn't enjoy it very much. The food and entertainment was good, but when you are very tired all you can think about is sleep. Specifically, Jennifer, the other American Scholar, sang a wonderful Christmas song. She is studying Opera, and her voice was incredible.

My Christmas plans have also now settled, at least as much as they are going to. I got an email from Rebecca saying that it was her last communication and that she would take the first ferry she could make from Cherbourg to Portsmouth on December 18th. Hopefully this will be enough information. I also have had my Mom buy an 8-day unlimited train travel pass in the US and that is being shipped over. The general plan is to travel to Birmingham from Portsmouth over a couple of days, and then do day trips from Birmingham until the 23rd. Then Rebecca and I will go our separate ways for Xmas, and travel some more using the rail pass after Xmas (hopefully to Scotland). Finally we will head down to Paris where she will meet a friend on January 5th, and I will go back to Birmingham to finish my mini-project which is due on the 14th of January.


Wednesday, December 18, 1996

This past Sunday I went to Sutton-Coldfield to the Pearce's house. They had invited me and their Ambassadorial Scholar, Michiko, to a Sunday Lunch. Apparently they have one every Sunday, and they had invited me to come in the past, but this was the first one I was able to attend. Michiko was coming up from Reading with her boyfriend, but unfortunately their train was delayed by several hours, so lunch was postponed while the rest of us (the Pearces and two students from France) waited. The Pearce's run a nursing home and at three pm the staff held a pantomime of Snow White. Michiko hadn't arrived by then, so we went over without her and her boyfriend. Just as it was starting the two of them arrived, so they had a chance to see the pantomime. It was even more amateur than the CathSoc panto of Cinderella, especially since both Snow White and Prince Charming had to be replaced as the people who were going to play the rolls couldn't make it. It was still fun to watch, however, part of the charm is how amateurish the panto is. Finally, after the panto at around 4:30pm we ate lunch. The lunch was excellent, and in the style of a Xmas dinner. We had soup, a scallop dish, and turkey, potatoes and vegetables, followed by Xmas pudding, trifle and lemon gateau for dessert. It was very filling and we didn't finish until 7:30pm.

This Monday my host club, Tamworth-Anker, had a carol service, and they asked me to do one of the readings at the service. I went up to Dr. Yannamani's house for a good Indian dinner before the service. The service itself was much smaller than the one in the Great Hall of the University last week. The Rotarians and their wives were in attendance. We sang lots of carols, and I read from Luke about the shepherds watching over their fields who were told of the birth of Jesus. After we had some refreshments before Dr. Yannamani took me home.

Yesterday was very hectic, since it was my last day in Birmingham before traveling for the holiday. I had agreed to edit the first draft of our report for the AI class, and I had to finish my section for the report and edit the thing. I finally finished that at around 10:30pm, then had to pack up so I could catch the train today to Portsmouth. I did take some time out for dinner with Cecilia and Marcin, two of my classmates. I had some tuna-noodle casserole that was going to spoil if I left it in the fridge, so I invited them up for dinner. They brought some veggies and drinks and we had a nice but very informal dinner.

This morning I woke up at 5:40am, having gone to bed just five hours before. I had to catch a 6:40am train to New Street, and from there to Winchester, and finally on to Portsmouth. I am supposed to meet Rebecca here today so that we can travel around England some. The only word I heard from her was that she would catch the earliest ferry from Cherbourg to Portsmouth that she could wake up to catch, she then said she would be out of touch until arriving in England. I checked the ferry times and the first one left Cherbourg this morning at 8:30am, getting here at noon. I got the early train to get here by noon, but she hasn't showed up, so I assume she will be on the next one which leaves Cherbourg at 5:30pm, arriving here at 9pm. It is now 1:30pm, so I guess I will go arrange a place for us to stay (or me to stay if she doesn't arrive), and then maybe watch a movie while I am waiting. I had thought we might stay in Salisbury, but that is not very feasible if she arrives at 9pm. Well, I will just have to wait and see what happens.


Thursday, December 19, 1996

Well, yesterday was a very long and tiring day, but in the end it worked out okay. After writing yesterday's entry I went into the main part of Portsmouth and watched "Star Trek: First Contact". The film was okay, but I felt that they made a lot of changes to the characters and ship (a new Enterprise!) without really explaining them. After that I tracked down that we could stay at the Portsmouth YMCA and splurged on dinner at Pizza Hut. Then I spent the last few hours at the train station getting some work done on my computer.

Rebecca did finally arrive on the 9:15pm ferry. It turned out that she had been 10 minutes late for the morning ferry, and had therefore had to wait nine-hours in Cherbourg to catch the 5:00pm ferry. A fact made more frustrating for her since Cherbourg is not that exciting (it was bombed flat in the war and has been rebuilt since), and they wouldn't let her store her luggage so that she could go out. In any case, she did arrive, and we marched down to the YMCA, got rooms and went to sleep.

The H.M.S. Victory
The H.M.S. Warrior 1860
The Mary Rose Remains

Ships at the Portsmouth Dockyard

Today we stayed in Portsmouth. After making plans for tonight (we decided to stay at the YMCA again tonight and go to Winchester in the morning), we went to the Portsmouth Naval Dockyard where we spent most of the day. The dockyard is one of the oldest Naval Ports still running today. In addition a section of it is open to tourists and has been restored to show how the Dockyard was in the past. The main attraction is three ships which they have on display: The Mary Rose, H.M.S Victory and H.M.S. Warrior 1860. The Mary Rose was Henry VIII's warship, and one of the prides of the English fleet in the Tudor period. In 1545 she sank off Portsmouth on her way to do battle with the French, and lay in the mud of the Solent for more than 400 years. In 1982 the remains of her hull was lifted off the sea floor and stored in a special building where it is being sprayed with polyethylene-glycol to preserve it. During the day we were able to see the hull and many of the artifacts taken off of it. The H.M.S. Victory was Admiral Lord Nelson's flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. During the battle the French and Spanish alliance was broken, and the French threat to Britain was eliminated. Nelson also perished in the battle, and during the tour we saw both the spot where he fell, and the place in the ship's hold where he later died. The ship was very impressive to tour. For an all wood ship the size was immense, and being beneath decks really highlighted the working conditions of the men (see picture of Rebecca and I in front of the Victory at left). Finally, the H.M.S. Warrior 1860 was the first Iron Clad steam ship in the British Navy. At its launch it was the pride of the Navy and there was an uneasy peace with France. The French did not threaten Britain again, however, and the ship was eventually converted to a barge and fell into disrepair. It has since been restored to its full working state. What was notable to me, however, was that the ship was a compromise, built on the cusp between the age of sail and the age of steam ships. Warrior still has the capacity for full sails and the funnels from the boilers can be retracted into the hull. The ship still has cannons, like the victory and older ships, but many of the amenities for sailors had been greatly improved.

The "Cannon" Deed Photo with the Victory in the Background

Perhaps the funniest moment of the day came when we went to take are picture with one of the cannons (above). I said, "Hey, look, we can take our picture with one of the cannons!" to which Rebecca replied, "We can, indeed" (We cannon deed). It was totally accidental, and we both thought about it for a minute before bursting out in laughter. We have a friend, Todd, back in the US who is notorious for his puns, and we both figured that for that short time his spirit was there with us.

Me at Dicken's Birthplace - "Gee, it just looks like a house!"

After the dockyards we walked past Charles Dickens birthplace and took some pictures, but didn't go in, since it pretty much just looked like a house. We went to the supermarket to buy some food, and then headed back to the YMCA where we are now.


Friday, December 20, 1996

Today is the winter solstice, the day with the least daylight of the entire year. It did not get light this morning until around 8:30am, and it was dark by 4:15pm, giving a grand total of 7h45m of daylight, much of which we spent riding the train. Our plan for today had been to go to Winchester on the 9:45am train, and then tour the city, staying at the Winchester Hostel, which is located right above the River Itchen which runs through Winchester, and then travel on to Oxford Saturday morning. Unfortunately, when we got to Winchester we found that there was nowhere in the city to leave our luggage, and the hostel didn't open until 5pm. So, we made a brief run into town and then headed immediately to Oxford where the hostel is open all the time.

In addition to the aforementioned problems it was raining sporadically when we arrived in Winchester. We decided to at least make a trip to the Great Hall lugging our possessions with us. The Great Hall was originally constructed in 847 A.D. as part of a castle, quite near some Roman fortifications. William the Conqueror had himself coronated a second time in the hall (the first time was in London), and it reached the peak its use in the 13th century when Henry III improved it as a part of his castle. It was then used sporadically until 1612 when Oliver Cromwell ordered the rest of the castle destroyed (since the Royalists had holed up there), but had the hall improved and kept for meetings. In addition a Round Table hangs on the wall, which was created in the 13th century. Henry III ordered it painted with the names of the Knights of the Round Table, and inscribed that it was King Arthur's Round Table (see picture of me with table at right). This is almost certainly not true due to how late it was constructed. After a brief look around the Great Hall we hiked back to the train station and headed to Oxford.

Upon arrival in Oxford our first order of business was to get to the hostel and drop our bags, which were becoming increasingly burdensome. This proved to be a more difficult task than expected, since the buses had been renumbered, so the guide I had was incorrect. Eventually we figured out the correct numbers and got out to the hostel. The hostel is very nicely appointed and Rebecca and I were able to get a separate room with a bunk so we could keep our stuff locked in the room while we went out. By the time we had done this and gotten back to the City Centre it was dark, so we just picked up some food for dinner and headed back to the hostel.

It was very weird walking around Oxford on the way to the hostel. All around are these majestic stone buildings rising above you. There was a slight mist in the air and it was all very surreal. I look forward to touring here some more tomorrow.


Monday, December 23, 1996

It has been a busy couple of days since I was last able to write, so I will try to get the journal back up to speed.

Saturday was our day in Oxford, the city of "Dreaming Spires" (see picture at left). We got up at around 9:30am and headed into town. The day was bitterly cold, so you couldn't comfortably stay outside for very long. We decided to take a tour in one of Oxford in one of the double-decker buses. A main feature of these buses is that the second level is open air-- a feature in Summer, but on this day a drawback. The buses allow you to get on and off at sites that interest you. For the first part of the tour we rode on the second level so we could see the city better. By the time we reached the railway station we couldn't feel our fingers or toes, so we got off for a hot chocolate, and finished the tour a bit later.

Magdalen College
(Pronounced "Maudlin")
Christ Church College

Two of Oxford's Famous Colleges

Oxford University is composed of 29 different colleges, as we learned on the tour. It also has several very nice museums. After finishing the tour it was clear we wouldn't be able to see all of them, so we decided to see the Ashmolean Museum and Christ Church College. The Ashmolean was huge, and we wandered through looking at a random selection of their collection. Of particular interest was the ancient greek artifacts, a collection of old musical instruments and a very nice coin collection which went back to Roman times. Christ Church is perhaps one of the most beautiful of the colleges. We saw the grounds and the cathedral on the campus. The cathedral was nice, but small in comparison to many of the others I have seen. We also went into the Great Hall, where students used to eat. Of note there was the "Alice" window, with characters from Alice in Wonderland. The book was written by Charles Dodgson, a mathematics lecturer at Christ Church, under the pseudonym Lewis Carrol. See the picture at left of me on the Christ Church grounds.

We left Oxford at around four to get back to Birmingham. The Pearces direct a group of kids (aged young to about 24) called the JAS group, and they were having a concert that night. The concert was very enjoyable. In addition to the JAS Group, there was a pianist, and some violinists. The pianist was a girl named Becky who was about 16 years old. She played some very difficult pieces by Liszt and Chaupin, and also one which she had composed herself. It was also amazing to see that one of the violinists was about 6 years old, but was able to keep up with the rest of the group.

After the concert we went to the Pearce's house where they had a party for the people in the group, and we were fortunate enough to tag along for. Everybody we met wanted to know where we were from and how we came to be at the party, and by the end of the night we were pretty tired of explaining that I was a Rotary Scholar, and Rebecca was studying in Spain but had come up to see her family in Yorkshire, that we both knew each other from Stanford, and since we both wanted to see England (and it is no fun traveling alone), we had decided to travel around England some before and after Christmas proper.

We spent the night at the Pearce's, and on Sunday (yesterday) after laying in a bit we went down to Stratford-on-Avon, home of the "Bard". Sunday train schedules were a bit irregular, so we had over an hour layover at Birmingham City Centre. During that time we went to the Museum and looked through a collection of tools and implements from the 19th century. I thought that some of the very first matches which they had on display were interesting. They had some which wouldn't go out in a wind so that you could light your pipe outdoors.

John Nash's House, The Home of
Shakespeare's Grand-Daughter
The Interior of John Nash's House

The Shakespeare Houses in Stratford-on-Avon

We finally arrived in Stratford at around 3pm, and most of the main attractions closed at 4pm, so we did a whirlwind tour of the city. In about one hour we saw the house Shakespeare was born in, the house his daughter and her husband lived in (Hall's Croft) with its collection of medical instruments from the past four centuries, and Nash House where Shakespeare's grand-daughter lived. At left is a picture of me in front of Shakespeare's birthplace. The silly grin on my face is me trying to look as cold as I felt. At right is a picture of Rebecca and I in front of Hall's Croft, and below is a picture of me with Nash House in the back. Finally, we strolled down the Avon as the moon rose, and went to Holy Trinity Church where Shakespeare is buried. On Shakespeare's tomb is an inscription warning people not to disturb his bones lest a curse be placed upon them. Apparently, at the time the graves, which are right beneath the high alter, were used for a few years after which they chucked the bones into a bone crypt and re-used them. Shakespeare didn't want this happening to his remains and asked that the inscription be placed on his grave. We then fled back to the train station to catch the 5:10pm train back to my flat, having seen Stratford in just over two hours!

In Front of Nash House

Today we spent some time trying to plan the next stage of our journey. We want to see York, Durham, Edinburgh, Cambridge, London and Paris between the 27th of December and January 5th. Everything seemed to be going smoothly until we tried to find a place to stay in Edinburgh around the 28th and 29th and found that it was impossible. New Years in Scotland is huge and everybody wants to go to Glasgow and Edinburgh to celebrate. A roommate of mine said that we would have had to reserve in October if we had wanted a room. Rebecca had to leave, so I saw her off, and we both said we would try and track down somewhere to stay. I finally found a Scottish Hostel in Stirling, about an hour by train from Edinburgh and made a reservation there. If worst comes to worst we can settle for that.


Thursday, December 26, 1996

The Christmas Holidays have now passed. I say holidays since there is Christmas Eve, Christmas and, here in England, Boxing Day.

Christmas Eve I went to Dr. Yannamani's house where we had a great seafood curry. Since the Yannamani's are Hindu, we had previously arranged for me to stay with the Pearce's for Christmas, so Dr. Yannamani took me over to the Pearce's house in time for Midnight Mass. The mass was fairly traditional with carols and Christmas readings. By the time we got back from Mass it was 1am, and I didn't get to sleep until two. Following what seemed like far too little sleep, I got up for the 10am Christmas Morning service, which I was taken to by Ruth, one of the members of the Pearce's Youth Choir, and her family. The service was a lot of fun as all of the kids were there, and the Pastor had them come up and demonstrate all their new toys during the service. I spent the rest of the day relaxing, with a brief pause for a light lunch. Then, that night we had a very nice Christmas Meal with goose and venison. I had never had venison before and really enjoyed it.

I also got to meet Eleri, the Pearce's daughter, who was home for the holiday. Coincidentally, she is working as an Au Pair in Mill Valley, not far from my home. I gave her Christmas presents for my family which she is bringing back to them today.

After Dinner
Me as a Scot with Gran!
The Whole Group

Boxing Day at the Orme's

Today is Boxing Day, and this morning Dr. Yannamani came to pick me around 9:30 (half-nine as they call it in England). We went to the Orme's house for a Boxing Day lunch. Brian Orme is a member of the same Rotary Club as Dr. Yannamani. The whole day was a lot of fun, especially since the Orme's son, Stuart, and another family with two daughters, Kate and Jo, were also there. In addition to a good lunch we had a lot of fun playing games, including pubs and charades. Pubs is similar to Pictionary except each team sees how long it takes them to get through a list of Pub names using only drawings. The grown ups played against the kids (although I am not sure we really counted as kids anymore), and the grown ups won by one Pub name.

Now I need to pack for tomorrow as I will be leaving on the 9:00 train to York.


Friday, December 27, 1996

We toured York today in not much longer than we took in Stratford-on-Avon. My train, which was supposed to arrive at noon, was delayed by an hour and a half, five minutes outside York. By the time we arrived at the hostel and dropped off our bags it was 3 o'clock, with most things closing at five.

We went to York Minster first, since that was what we were most interested in (see picture at right). Of the cathedrals that I have visited thus far, it was the biggest. The other notable thing was that it seems much more well thought out, in comparison to Worcester Cathedral for example. Worcester has distinct sections which are done in different styles, showing how it changed as people worked on it over the centuries. Everything in York Minster was much more well coordinated by comparison. The whole cathedral was very beautiful to look at.

York Minster
Clifford's Tower
Bootham Bar
(One of the Gates)

Scenes of York

We then hurried to Clifford's Tower, the last remainder of York Castle. It is located on a small bank of dirt, and when we had climbed to the top we found it had just closed. We had a pretty good view nonetheless. We also stopped at the Museum of Automata, which displayed motorized figures through the ages, from ancient greek water based toys, to wind up accordion players to modern day robots (see picture at left).  We then hurried back to the Cathedral for Evensong service, which was held in a small chapel off of the side of the Cathedral.

After that we had dinner at Pizzaland, since we had a five pound off coupon. Finally we walked/slipped back to the Hostel. Last night is snowed in this area, and during the day it melted, and then froze again, so all the way back we were sliding. We took the path along the river, and kept joking we would slide right in. Fortunately, we didn't actually fall down.

Now I am going to try to get off to sleep early, since we are heading off to Durham early tomorrow, and I haven't gotten a whole lot of sleep lately.


Saturday, December 28, 1996

The York Hostel includes breakfast in the room fee, so I got up this morning and had a traditional Scottish Breakfast, which included fried eggs, fried bread, fried bacon, fried sausage, fried hash brown, mushrooms, stewed tomatoes and fried black pudding (coagulated blood). The black pudding was a first for me, and actually wasn't too bad. As you can see the Scottish like to emphasize the fried aspect of things. I was very full afterwards, but my body probably won't metabolize the fat for several days!! Rebecca had already eaten breakfast by the time I got up, since she is an early riser, so as soon as I finished breakfast we headed off to Durham.

Libby Stafford is a friend of mine from Stanford, and is Rebecca's cousin, former roommate, and friend. She made both of us promise that if we did nothing else when visiting England, that we would go to Durham. She spent a year in Durham with her father who is an Anglican/Episcopalian priest. So, both of us were looking forward to Durham.

The Cathedral with the River Wear
in the Foreground
Durham Cathedral from a Distance
The Neville Screen, One of the 
Most Beautiful Parts of the
Cathedral
The Knocker on the Cathedral
Door. Criminals Gained Respite
from the Law by Knocking

Scenes of Durham Cathedral

When we arrived in Durham, we found the same situation as in Winchester-- there was no place in the whole town to store luggage due to paranoia about terrorism. Unlike Winchester, however, we had strong motivation to see the town so we trudged around with all of our bags.

View Down the River Wear from One of the Bridges into Durham

Durham is a peninsula of land formed by a near-loop in the River Wear (rhymes with 'deer'). On the peninsula stand Durham Cathedral, which dates back 900 years, and Durham Castle, now part of Durham University. Durham Cathedral is the final resting place of the Venerable Bede and St. Cuthbert, the man held responsible for the introduction of Christianity to the British Isles way back in around 700 A.D.. The Castle was where the Prince-Bishops who ruled both the territory surrounding Durham and held high position in the church had their center of power.

The town had a very magical, almost fairy tale feel about it for me. The train station is on a nearby hill and from it you can see the peninsula with both the castle and the cathedral (at left is a picture of Rebecca with, from left to right, the Castle and the Cathedral). There were scattered rain clouds going by overhead with beams of sunlight streaming through them and down onto the peninsula, a most incredible sight (see picture of sun lit castle at right). The inside of the Cathedral was also wonderful to see. The light streamed through the stained glass windows making the interior seem very bright, and almost alive, unlike the dim and dank interiors of many other cathedrals. The Cathedral is also in the Norman style, and lacks the decoration of the Gothic style, so the cathedral had a wonderful austere feel to it. We also climbed the 325 steps to the top of the cathedral tower, from which we had a magnificent view of the surrounding country (see photo at left). It was also clear from the top why this peninsula was so prized, as it provides a wonderful naturally defensible site. Unfortunately the castle was closed, so we only got to see the outside, which was impressive in its own right. I think both Rebecca and I were in agreement that Libby was correct in recommending the town to us. It has a timeless feel to it that many of the other cities and towns have lost as they succumb to the effects of modern times.

Me in Front of the 
Cathedral
Rebecca and I with Part
of the Castle in the Back

Other Photos from Durham

After seeing Durham we trudged to the train station and headed off to Edinburgh. When we arrived the first site was of the marvelous old buildings and Edinburgh Castle all brightly lit up. We didn't get a chance to explore much, before checking into our hostel, but I am looking forward to tomorrow.


Monday, December 30, 1996

It is Monday morning and we are now on the train heading to Cambridge where we will spend the day. Yesterday was so busy that I did not get a chance to write in the journal, but I will catch it up now.

Yesterday morning when we were eating breakfast in the hostel, a guy sat down and was eating at the same table with us. After a while he asked me if I went to Stanford, to which I replied, "Yes". After a few minutes of confusion Rebecca and he both realized that we all new each other from Cornerstone, a Christian fellowship group at Stanford that we were all members of. He was Dave Roghair, and had spent the Autumn quarter in Moscow, and was now traveling in the UK before returning home. It was an amazing coincidence that we would both wind up in Edinburgh, at the same hostel-- especially considering that we were only in Edinburgh for one day. At right is a picture of Dave and Rebecca on the High Street in Edinburgh.

The three of us went together to a service at St. Giles, the High Kirk (High Church) of Scotland. See the picture of Dave and Rebecca outside St. Giles at left. It was a nice service, and afterwards Dave went to climb to the top of Arthur's Seat, a nearby mountain with a fort at the top, and we went to take a tour of Edinburgh and see Edinburgh Castle (Dave had seen these things the day before).

Edinburgh is a city neatly partitioned in to two towns, the old and the new. The Old town is full of tiny streets, closes and wynds (the latter two are small passageways), while the new town, built around 1800 during the Georgian era, is laid out on a very precise grid. We spent most of our time in the old town, which has a lot more character. We took a bus tour so that we could get an overall idea of things, and then went to the Castle.

Me In Front of Holly Rood Castle, This Was as Close as We Got Since We Didn't Want To Pay the 5 Pound Admission!

The Castle sits on a volcanic plug overlooking the rest of Edinburgh. It has such a rich history that you could spend a full day there and still have only scratched the surface, so the two hours or so we had to spend were hardly sufficient. One of the nice things that the Castle admission gets you is an audio player which tells you about the castle. At various locations were plaques with numbers, that, when typed into the player, caused a brief explanation of the significance of the area to be played. In addition, if there were other related topics you could jump to descriptions of them. This was great, but there was so much information on the player that it was impossible to hear it all in the brief time we had to spend at the castle.
The Stone of Scone
The Honors of Scotland
Edinburgh Castle

Scenes of Edinburgh Castle

One of the more famous things at the castle are the Honors of Scotland (Scottish Crown Jewels), and the Stone of Scone, or Stone of Destiny. The Scottish Crown Jewels are the oldest in Britain, and held in high esteem. The other item there was the Stone of Scone, which looks like a rather ordinary rock with metal handles attached to the sides. Since long ago all Kings of Scotland were coronated sitting on this stone, originally in Scone, Scotland. It also has supposed connections to Jacob of the bible, who is said to have used it as a pillow. In the 13th century Edward II stole/captured the stone and took it to London, and it has irked the Scottish ever since. Finally this year Queen Elizabeth II gave permission for its return, and it was transported back to Edinburgh Castle to lay with the Honors of Scotland.

Edinburgh At Dusk, Seen from the Castle. On the left is New Town, and the right Old Town, with the Train Station between them.

By the time we finished the castle it was getting dark, and we had to pick our bags up from the Hostel so we could catch our train to York where we spent the night last night. On the way we stopped for a Scottish Delicacy: Deep fried Mars (Milky Way in the US) bar. Basically they take a Mars bar, batter it up with Fish'n Chip batter, and deep fry it. It sounded a little revolting, but we had to try it. It actually didn't taste too bad, a combination of grease, batter and molten chocolate. I can't say that I would want to eat one more than once in a long while, but it was worth the try.

Both going to the Hostel to get our bags, and on the way back to the station we ran into the opening of the Hogmanay Festival held for four days around New Years Day. It was just starting last night and they were having a torch light procession around the town which we had to navigate around. They had High Street and Princes Street, two of the main streets in Edinburgh blocked off. There were also search lights all over Edinburgh lighting up the night sky. We overheard a man telling the tourists that this year would be the biggest Festival yet, with over 350,000 people attending-- apparently Glasgow was having a festival for the first time this year and it was unacceptable for theirs to be bigger. Unfortunately to stay for the festival we would have had to book months in advance, so as the torch lit procession continued to pass we got on our train and headed for back to York, where we spent the night before heading on to Cambridge today. 


Tuesday, December 31, 1996

Today is New Years Eve, the last day of 1996, and, presumably, the last entry in the journal for this year. The year has been a pretty good one. I finished my first year at Stanford, finally settling into the rigor of the course work and doing quite well, and I began my year abroad in England. In England I have had incredible opportunities and done many things I would never have had the chance to do if it weren't for my Rotary Scholarship. I look forward to an even better conclusion of my year in England and completing my Masters at Stanford in 1997.

Last I wrote, we were coming into Cambridge by train. We arrived around noon at the station, and were excited since the Hostel in Cambridge is only 1/4 mile from the station, so we wouldn't have to lug our bags very far. Just as we started to walk there, however, it started to snow, escalating to a miniature blizzard midway to the Hostel. Then, when we arrived at the Hostel, the snow stopped, and didn't come down the whole rest of the day. At least we got an opportunity to feel like we were experiencing winter. The picture at right shows me covered with a light dusting of snow after the mini-blizzard.

Me at Trinity
Rebecca with St. John's College in 
the Background

Pictures of Us at Some of the Cambridge Colleges

After dropping our bags at the Hostel, we went out walking around Cambridge. Unfortunately, due to the school holiday, almost all the buildings in town were closed. Rebecca is a big fan of the King's College Choir, and was disappointed that we were unable to look at the King's College Chapel where they sing. At left is a picture of the outside of the King's College Chapel, which was all we got to see. We were able to walk around the grounds of some of the colleges, including Trinity (where Isaac Newton went), and St. John's College (see pictures above). We also had a chance to walk around the "Backs" which is where the colleges have their lawns and gardens. The River Cam flows between the Colleges and the Backs (little more than a stream, really), and it was frozen in parts. Some ducks walked over to us across the ice when we were standing on the bank, and were disappointed when we didn't have any bread for them (see picture at right).

Since everything was closed, we got back to the Hostel by 4pm. On the way back I spotted a Domino's Shop, so for dinner I ordered a pizza from them, something I haven't done since I left the US. It wasn't quite up to the standards of Domino's Pizza back home, but it was still quite good. We spent the rest of last night hanging out at the Hostel, playing games and watching movies.

Now we are on the train to London, where we will spend the next two days before heading to Paris to finish the trip.